Moroccan chest of drawers

A Moroccan chest of drawers brings together carved wood, metal inlay and geometric pattern in a piece that works as storage and as a focal point. Eclectic Art Studio looks at what makes these pieces recognisable, how to assess quality and how to keep them in good condition once they're part of your space.

Recognise the key features

Look for hand-carved detail across the drawer fronts and sides. Artisans cut relief patterns into solid wood – cedar, walnut or thuya – leaving raised geometric motifs or floral shapes. The carving depth varies: deeper cuts cast stronger shadows and feel more substantial under your hand.

Metal inlay appears as fine lines of brass, copper or white metal pressed into routed channels. Traditional designs favour stars, interlocking hexagons and calligraphic flourishes. Check whether the metal sits flush with the wood or stands slightly proud; both are acceptable if the workmanship is even.

Bone or mother-of-pearl inlay adds a third material. Small tiles are set into the surface to form borders or repeat patterns. Quality pieces show tight joins with no gaps, and the inlay should feel smooth rather than catching on cloth when you wipe across it.

Choose a piece that fits your room

Measure the wall space first. Moroccan chests range from low, wide formats with four or five drawers to tall, narrow cabinets. A wider chest anchors a bedroom or hallway; a taller piece suits a corner or a gap between windows.

Consider drawer depth if you're storing folded textiles or papers. Shallow drawers – around ten to twelve centimetres – work for smaller items; deeper drawers hold bulkier things but add weight to the piece. Pull a drawer fully open before you buy: it should slide without tilting and stop before it falls out.

Finish colour affects how the chest reads in different light. Dark stain emphasises carved shadows; lighter or natural finishes let the wood grain show through. If the piece will sit near a window, remember that some finishes fade over time while others darken.

Assess the construction

1. Turn the chest slightly to check the back panel. Solid wood or thick plywood is better than hardboard; the panel should be screwed or nailed securely into a rebate, not simply tacked on.
2. Remove a drawer and look at thejoinery. Dovetail or finger joints at the corners indicate hand construction. Butt joints reinforced with nails or staples are acceptable on simpler pieces but won't last as long under daily use.
3. Feel the drawer base from underneath. Thin plywood or hardboard may sag if loaded heavily. A thicker base or one supported by a central runner is more durable.
4. Inspect the metal hardware – handles, corner brackets, decorative plates. They should be fixed with screws that go into solid wood, not into filler or a surface veneer.

Understand common mistakes

Placing a carved chest against a radiator or in direct sun causes the wood to dry out. Cracks open along the grain, inlay loosens and any glued joints may fail. Keep the piece away from heat sources and out of strong, sustained daylight.

Using standard furniture polish on oiled or waxed surfaces creates a sticky residue that traps dust in the carved detail. Ask the maker or seller what finish was applied, then use a compatible product. If the information isn't available, test a small hidden area before treating the whole piece.

Overloading drawers stresses the runners and can pull handles loose. Distribute weight evenly and avoid filling a single drawer with heavy objects while leaving others empty, which can make the chest tip forward when that drawer is opened.

Keep carved and inlaid surfaces clean

Dust weekly with a soft brush or a cloth that won't snag on raised carving. Work along the grain and into the carved channels, lifting out debris rather than pushing it deeper. A clean, dry paintbrush reaches tight corners without scratching the wood or dislodging inlay.

Wipe metal inlay with a barely damp cloth if it becomes tarnished, then dry it immediately. Avoid metal polish unless you can apply it precisely to the inlay alone – it will stain surrounding wood if it spreads. For stubborn tarnish, a cotton bud dipped in a mild metal cleaner gives better control.

Re-oil or re-wax the wood once or twice a year, depending on the room's humidity and how much the chest is handled. Apply a thin layer with a lint-free cloth, leave it to soak in for the time the product specifies, then buff off any excess. Too much oil or wax leaves a tacky film.

Repair minor damage yourself

Small scratches in the finish often respond to a matching wood stain applied with a fine brush, then sealed with a tiny amount of the original finish once the stain has dried. Test the colour on an offcut or hidden edge first.

If a piece of inlay lifts, clean out old adhesive from the recess with a pin or the tip of a craft knife. Apply a small dot of wood glue, press the inlay back into place and wipe away any squeeze-out immediately. Hold it down with low-tack tape until the glue sets.

Loose handles are usually fixed by tightening the screw from inside the drawer. If the screw turns without gripping, remove it, fill the hole with a sliver of wood or a wooden matchstick dipped in glue, let it cure, then re-drill a pilot hole and refit the handle.

Where to go next

Look for makers and importers who document the origin and construction of their pieces. Transparency about materials, joinery and finish helps you compare quality and understand what you're paying for.

Visit studios or showrooms where you can handle the furniture before buying. Photographs rarely show carving depth, drawer fit or the feel of the wood, all of which matter once the piece is in daily use.

Consider commissioning a piece if standard sizes don't fit your space. Many artisans will adapt drawer counts, overall dimensions or inlay patterns to suit a specific room, though lead times and costs will be higher than for ready-made stock.